The Houses of Parliament: London’s Living Chamber of History
Right in the heart of London, where the River Thames curls past St. Thomas’ Hospital and the London Eye glows at dusk, stands the Houses of Parliament - not just a building, but the beating heart of British democracy. For over 700 years, this is where decisions that shaped the nation were argued, passed, and sometimes overturned. You’ve seen it in photos, on postcards, maybe even from the top of a Thames riverboat. But if you’ve ever stood on the Westminster Bridge at sunrise and watched the clock tower catch the first light, you know this isn’t just another London attraction. It’s where history doesn’t stay in books - it’s happening right now.
More Than Just Big Ben
Most tourists call it Big Ben, but that’s actually the name of the bell inside the clock tower. The tower itself is the Elizabeth Tower, renamed in 2012 to mark the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. The Houses of Parliament - officially the Palace of Westminster - is the entire complex: the Commons, the Lords, the Central Lobby, the smoking room where MPs still debate over pints of bitter after hours. The Gothic Revival architecture, designed by Charles Barry with input from Augustus Pugin, wasn’t just about style. Every gargoyle, every stained glass window, every carved stone was meant to say: this is where Britain’s soul is shaped.
Walk through the lobby on a weekday morning, and you’ll see civil servants in sharp suits rushing past MPs in tweed jackets. You’ll hear the clatter of briefcases, the murmur of debates still echoing from last night’s division. On Fridays, you might spot a group of schoolchildren from a Camden primary school, wide-eyed, clutching free parliamentary leaflets. Locals know the best time to visit is just after lunch, when the queues thin out and the light hits the Victoria Tower just right.
Where Britain’s Voice Is Made
The Commons Chamber is where the real drama happens. The green leather benches, the Speaker’s chair, the famous ‘crossbenches’ - this is where Theresa May faced down Brexit rebels, where Boris Johnson’s government collapsed under its own weight, and where Keir Starmer now leads Labour from the opposition benches. The debates aren’t scripted. They’re raw. You’ll hear a Labour MP from Tower Hamlets challenge the Chancellor on housing costs, or a Conservative from North Yorkshire demand more funding for rural post offices. These aren’t political theater performances. They’re the daily grind of governing a country of 67 million people.
And it’s not just about speeches. The real power lies in the committees - the ones you never see on TV. The Health Committee meets in Room 14, reviewing NHS funding. The Education Committee sits in Room 18, hearing from headteachers in Manchester and Bristol. These are the rooms where laws are actually written, amended, and sometimes killed. If you want to understand how policy becomes reality in the UK, you need to understand these rooms - not the grand halls.
A Building That Survived
The current Palace of Westminster isn’t the original. The old one burned down in 1834, after a stove overheated in the House of Lords. The fire destroyed centuries of records, including the Exchequer’s ledgers and the original writs of summons. Yet, from those ashes came one of the most enduring symbols of British resilience. When the Blitz hit in 1941, bombs landed on the Commons Chamber. The roof collapsed. The interior was gutted. But within months, MPs were back - debating in a temporary chamber built from corrugated iron and plywood. They called it the ‘Temporary Chamber’ - but it became known as the ‘Bombed Chamber’. That’s the spirit: no fire, no bomb, no political scandal could keep Parliament from doing its job.
Today, the building is undergoing its biggest restoration since the 19th century. The £4 billion refurbishment, called the Restoration and Renewal Programme, is fixing crumbling stonework, replacing 19th-century wiring that still powers some lights, and installing modern accessibility features. The Commons will be temporarily moved to the Queen Elizabeth II Conference Centre, just a five-minute walk from Westminster Abbey. Locals have started calling it ‘Parliament Lite’. But even in exile, the work goes on.
What You Can See - And What You Can’t
If you’re visiting London, you can book a free guided tour through the UK Parliament website. It’s not a flashy museum. You’ll walk through the Royal Gallery, see the Robing Room where the monarch dons the Imperial State Crown, and stand in the lobby where MPs bump into each other before votes. You’ll hear stories about the Mace - the ornate scepter that symbolizes royal authority - and how it’s carried into the Commons each day by the Serjeant-at-Arms.
But here’s what most tourists miss: the tea room. The Members’ Tea Room, tucked behind the Commons, is where MPs grab a quick cuppa and a bacon sandwich from the local bakery, Patisserie Valerie, or a slice of Victoria sponge from the nearby Fortnum & Mason. It’s not open to the public - but if you’re lucky enough to know someone who works there, you’ll hear stories about the time a minister spilled tea on the Brexit papers, or how a backbencher once proposed a law to make afternoon tea a national holiday.
On Sundays, you can attend Evensong at Westminster Abbey, just across the road. The same choir that sings in the Abbey once sang in the Chapel Royal inside the Palace. The acoustics are nearly identical. It’s a quiet way to reflect on the centuries of voices - religious, political, rebellious - that have filled this corner of London.
Why It Still Matters
In a city full of flashy tech startups in Shoreditch, luxury boutiques on Bond Street, and global banks in the City, the Houses of Parliament feel almost out of place. But that’s the point. It’s not here because it’s convenient. It’s here because it’s necessary. When the EU referendum results came in, it was here that MPs gathered, not in a Zoom call. When the pandemic hit, it was here that emergency powers were debated, not in a boardroom.
Every year, thousands of schoolchildren from across London - from Brixton to Barnet - come here to learn how laws are made. They sit in the public gallery and watch debates on climate change, mental health funding, or the future of the NHS. They don’t just learn about democracy. They see it in action.
And if you live in London, you’re part of that story. Whether you voted in the last general election, signed a petition, wrote to your MP about a pothole on your street, or simply watched a debate on BBC News while sipping a cup of tea from a Tesco own-brand mug - you’re connected to this place. It’s not a monument. It’s a machine. And it’s still running.
How to Experience It Like a Local
- Take the District or Circle line to Westminster Station - it’s the easiest way to get there from anywhere in London.
- Visit on a Thursday afternoon: the Commons often sits after 3 PM, and the public gallery is usually open.
- Grab a coffee from Barista on Bridge Street before you go - it’s the go-to spot for parliamentary staff.
- Walk along the Thames Path after dark: the building lights up, and the reflection on the water is unforgettable.
- Check the Parliament website for ‘Meet Your MP’ days - locals can book one-on-one chats with their representatives.
- Attend a public committee hearing - they’re open to all, and often cover issues that affect your neighborhood.
You don’t need a ticket to feel the weight of this place. Just stand on the bridge. Listen. And remember: this isn’t just London’s history. It’s your history too.
Can I visit the Houses of Parliament for free?
Yes, UK residents can book free guided tours through the UK Parliament website. Tours run Monday to Saturday and include access to the Commons, Lords, and historic rooms. Non-UK visitors can also book free tours, but they must be arranged through their MP or a registered tour operator. There’s no charge for entry, but you’ll need to book in advance - spaces fill up quickly, especially in summer.
Is Big Ben still ticking during the restoration?
Yes. The clock continues to chime on the hour, even during the restoration. The mechanism was carefully preserved and maintained by the Clockmakers’ Company, a 400-year-old guild based in the City of London. The bell, Big Ben, has been silent for maintenance since 2017 but resumed striking in 2022. The sound still echoes across Westminster, just as it has since 1859.
Can I watch debates live?
Absolutely. The public gallery in both the House of Commons and the House of Lords is open during sitting days. You don’t need to be a UK citizen - just arrive early, bring ID, and queue at the visitor entrance on New Palace Yard. Debates are also streamed live on Parliament TV, and many are available on YouTube. Popular debates - like the Prime Minister’s Questions - often draw crowds, so arrive at least an hour before.
What’s the best time of year to visit?
Spring and early autumn are ideal. The weather is mild, the gardens are in bloom, and the public gallery is less crowded. Summer sees the most tourists, but also the busiest parliamentary schedule - so you’re more likely to catch a live debate. Winter can be cold and dark, but the building looks stunning lit up at night, especially around Christmas when the Christmas tree is displayed in the Central Lobby.
Are there any hidden spots near the Houses of Parliament?
Yes. Behind the Palace, tucked between the Thames and the Abbey, is St. Margaret’s Church - the parish church of the House of Commons. It’s been holding services since 1523. Also, don’t miss the small statue of Winston Churchill in the nearby garden of the Church of St. Mary Undercroft - a quiet spot where MPs often pause to reflect. Just across the river, the Tate Britain offers free entry and a stunning view of the Parliament buildings from its riverside terrace.